Whittier is unlike any other cruise port in Alaska. This tiny town of roughly 200 residents sits at the head of Passage Canal in Prince William Sound, completely surrounded by steep, glacier-carved mountains and accessible only through a single tunnel blasted through solid rock. For most Alaska cruise passengers, Whittier is the place where your Gulf of Alaska voyage begins or ends, serving as the primary embarkation and debarkation point for one-way itineraries between Anchorage and Vancouver or Seattle.
Do not expect a charming port town with shops and cafes lining the waterfront. Whittier is raw, remote, and industrial. What it lacks in tourist infrastructure it makes up for with staggering natural beauty. Prince William Sound, which opens up beyond the harbor, contains 26 named tidewater glaciers and is home to humpback whales, orcas, sea otters, harbor seals, Steller sea lions, and enormous colonies of seabirds. The port is not the destination. It is the doorway.
Getting to Whittier
The journey to Whittier is an adventure in itself, and every cruise passenger needs to understand the logistics before arrival day.
The Anton Anderson Memorial Tunnel There is only one road into Whittier, and it passes through the Anton Anderson Memorial Tunnel, a 2.5-mile bore through Maynard Mountain. This is the longest combined highway and railroad tunnel in North America, and it operates unlike any tunnel you have ever driven through. The tunnel is a single lane, shared by both cars and Alaska Railroad trains. Traffic moves in one direction at a time, alternating on a fixed schedule with openings roughly every 15 to 30 minutes. If you miss your window, you wait for the next one. During peak summer cruise traffic, waits of 30 minutes or more at the tunnel portal are not uncommon.
Check the published tunnel schedule before you leave Anchorage and plan to arrive at the Portage end of the tunnel at least 15 minutes before your desired opening. The tunnel has a posted speed limit of 25 mph and takes about six minutes to drive through. The interior is dimly lit, rough-hewn rock with water seeping through the walls. It is an unforgettable experience.
Driving from Anchorage The drive from Anchorage to the Whittier tunnel portal covers about 60 miles along the Seward Highway and Portage Glacier Road. The Seward Highway section is one of America’s most scenic drives, following the shore of Turnagain Arm where you can spot beluga whales and Dall sheep on the rocky cliffs above. Allow at least 1.5 hours total, including the tunnel wait. Cruise line bus transfers follow this same route.
Alaska Railroad The Alaska Railroad’s Glacier Discovery route runs from Anchorage to Whittier in about 2.5 hours, passing through the Chugach Mountains and through the tunnel itself. The train deposits passengers steps from the cruise terminal. For many travelers, the railroad is the preferred transfer because it removes the stress of driving, parking, and timing the tunnel, while offering panoramic views of glaciers and alpine wilderness that the highway does not reach.
The Cruise Terminal
The Whittier cruise terminal is located directly adjacent to the small boat harbor on the waterfront. It is a compact, functional facility. When your cruise line bus or the Alaska Railroad arrives, you are essentially already at the ship. Large cruise vessels dock at the dedicated cruise ship berth, and the walk from the terminal building to the gangway is short and straightforward.
If you are embarking, porters will take your checked luggage at the terminal entrance. Drop your bags and take the opportunity to walk the harbor before boarding. If you are debarkating, your transfer bus or train will be waiting in the same area. The turnaround in Whittier is efficient precisely because there is nowhere else to go. Everything funnels through that one tunnel.
What to Do in Whittier
Whittier is not a place where you will wander around for hours window shopping. The town consists of the harbor, a few buildings, and Begich Towers. Your time here is best spent on the water or along the waterfront.
Prince William Sound Glacier Cruise The single best excursion you can book from Whittier is a Prince William Sound glacier cruise. Phillips Cruises and Tours operates the famous 26 Glaciers route, a roughly five-hour catamaran cruise that takes you deep into the western arms of Prince William Sound to see 26 named tidewater glaciers. Watching massive walls of blue ice calve into the sea from the deck of a boat is one of the most spectacular things you can do in Alaska. Major Marine Tours also operates glacier cruises from the Whittier harbor. If your cruise schedule allows a half-day or full-day excursion before embarkation or after debarkation, this is the one to book.
Sea Kayaking Prince William Sound offers some of the finest sea kayaking in the world, and Whittier is the launch point. Guided kayak tours take you among icebergs and along glacier faces, with sea otters, harbor seals, and bald eagles as constant companions. Trips range from a few hours to full-day expeditions. No prior kayaking experience is needed for most guided tours. The water in the sound is remarkably calm compared to open ocean, making it accessible even for beginners.
Fishing Charters Whittier’s small boat harbor is home to a fleet of fishing charter operators targeting halibut and salmon in Prince William Sound. Silver salmon run strong in late July through September, and halibut fishing is productive all summer. A half-day charter fits well into an embarkation day schedule if your ship does not depart until evening.
Walk the Waterfront and Harbor Even if you do not book an excursion, spend at least 30 minutes walking the small boat harbor and waterfront. Sea otters are almost always visible floating in the harbor, and harbor seals haul out on nearby rocks. Bald eagles perch on the light poles and masts. The views across Passage Canal toward the glaciated peaks are extraordinary, especially on a clear day.
Begich Towers and the Town
Whittier has one of the most unusual stories of any town in Alaska. During World War II and the Cold War era, the U.S. military built a major port facility here because the deep-water harbor was ice-free year-round and the surrounding mountains made it invisible from the open sea. The military constructed two massive concrete buildings to house troops: the Hodge Building (now Begich Towers) and the Buckner Building.
When the military pulled out, civilians moved into the Hodge Building, which was renamed Begich Towers after Alaska Congressman Nick Begich. Today, nearly the entire population of Whittier lives in this single 14-story concrete structure. The building contains apartments, a small grocery and convenience store, a post office, the police station, a laundromat, and even an indoor shooting range. The Buckner Building was abandoned and remains a massive, decaying ruin on the hillside above the harbor. It is fenced off but visible from town and has an eerie, post-apocalyptic quality.
What to Skip
Expecting a Full Port Town Experience Whittier is not Juneau or Ketchikan. There is no downtown shopping district, no museum row, and no network of tour desks. If you go in expecting a walkable port town, you will be disappointed. Adjust your expectations. Whittier is a portal to the wilderness, not a destination in itself.
Cutting It Close on the Tunnel Do not gamble with the tunnel schedule. If you are driving yourself and you miss your tunnel opening, you could sit for 30 minutes waiting for the next one. Build in a generous buffer. Arriving at the ship 15 minutes before all-aboard with your heart pounding is not how you want to start a vacation.
Eating in Whittier
Dining options in Whittier are extremely limited. There are a handful of small eateries near the harbor that serve standard fare like fish and chips, burgers, and chowder. Quality varies. The honest advice is this: if you are embarking, eat a good meal in Anchorage or stop in Girdwood (about 40 miles from Anchorage along the Seward Highway), where you will find significantly better restaurants. The Double Musky Inn in Girdwood is a legendary steakhouse that is worth a detour. If you are debarkating, eat breakfast on the ship before you get off.
For a quick bite at the harbor, Lazy Otter Charters and Cafe operates a small cafe with coffee, pastries, and sandwiches that is popular with kayakers and charter boat passengers waiting for their tours.
Practical Info
Weather and What to Wear Whittier is one of the rainiest places in Alaska, receiving a staggering 174 inches of precipitation annually. That is more than 14 feet of rain and snow per year. Even in the peak of summer, you should expect overcast skies, drizzle, and fog. The average July high is only 62 degrees Fahrenheit. Bring a waterproof rain jacket, waterproof pants if you plan to be on a small boat or kayak, and warm layers underneath. Cotton is useless here. Stick with synthetic or wool base layers that retain warmth when wet.
Connectivity Cell service is available in Whittier proper but is limited and slow. Do not expect reliable data coverage once you are out on the water in Prince William Sound. Download any maps, tickets, or important documents before you leave Anchorage. The tunnel has no cell service.
Parking If you are driving yourself to embark on a cruise, Whittier offers long-term parking near the terminal. Rates are reasonable, but spaces fill up during peak season. Check with your cruise line for recommended lots and reserve a spot if possible.
Cash and Tips Bring small bills for tipping porters, bus drivers, and tour boat crew. Most businesses in Whittier accept credit cards, but a few of the smaller operations at the harbor are cash-preferred. An ATM is available in Begich Towers if you need cash in a pinch.
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Frequently Asked Questions
How do I get from Anchorage to the Whittier cruise terminal?
Whittier is approximately 60 miles southeast of Anchorage, about a 1.5-hour drive via the Seward Highway and Portage Glacier Road. The final stretch requires passing through the Anton Anderson Memorial Tunnel, the longest highway tunnel in North America at 2.5 miles. The tunnel is single-lane and alternates direction on a fixed schedule, so you may wait 15 to 30 minutes or more for your turn. Cruise line bus transfers, private shuttles, and the Alaska Railroad all run from Anchorage to the Whittier terminal.
What is the Anton Anderson Memorial Tunnel and how does it work?
The Anton Anderson Memorial Tunnel is a 2.5-mile bore through Maynard Mountain that provides the only land access to Whittier. It is the longest combined highway and railroad tunnel in North America, shared by both vehicles and Alaska Railroad trains on a single lane. Traffic alternates direction on a published schedule, with openings typically every 15 to 30 minutes. Check the tunnel schedule before you leave Anchorage and plan to arrive at the tunnel portal at least 15 minutes before your desired opening time.
Is Whittier an embarkation port or a port of call?
Whittier serves primarily as an embarkation and debarkation port for Gulf of Alaska cruises. Ships that sail one-way between Vancouver or Seattle and Alaska often begin or end in Whittier. It is not a typical port of call where ships dock for a few hours of sightseeing. Most passengers are either starting their cruise or ending it and transferring to Anchorage.
What is there to do in Whittier before boarding the ship?
Whittier is an extremely small town with a population of about 200, so do not expect a full day of city sightseeing. The main attractions are nature-based: book a Prince William Sound glacier cruise with Phillips Cruises or Major Marine Tours, go sea kayaking among icebergs, or take a fishing charter for halibut and salmon. You can also walk the waterfront, visit the small boat harbor, and watch sea otters and harbor seals from the docks.
Where do most Whittier residents live?
Nearly the entire population of Whittier lives in Begich Towers, a 14-story former Cold War military barracks originally called the Hodge Building. Built in the 1950s as part of a military port facility, the building was converted to civilian housing and now contains apartments, a post office, a small grocery store, a laundromat, and the police station. It is one of the most unusual living arrangements in the United States.
What is the weather like in Whittier?
Whittier is one of the wettest places in Alaska, receiving an extraordinary 174 inches of precipitation per year. Expect rain, fog, and overcast skies even in summer. The average July high temperature is only 62 degrees Fahrenheit. Bring a high-quality waterproof rain jacket, waterproof pants if you plan to kayak, and layers you can adjust throughout the day. Do not pack your rain gear in your checked cruise luggage.
Can I take the Alaska Railroad to Whittier?
Yes. The Alaska Railroad operates the Glacier Discovery route from Anchorage to Whittier, which runs through the spectacular Chugach Mountains and directly through the Anton Anderson Memorial Tunnel. The train ride takes about 2.5 hours and drops you off steps from the cruise terminal. Many passengers consider the railroad transfer to be one of the scenic highlights of their entire trip.
Is there anywhere to eat in Whittier?
Dining options in Whittier are very limited compared to larger Alaska ports. There are a few small restaurants and cafes near the harbor, but do not expect a wide selection. If you are debarkation and heading to Anchorage, plan to eat a full meal on the ship before disembarking. If you are embarking, consider eating in Anchorage or Girdwood before driving through the tunnel.